Totally without Google it simply won’t work in all kinds of domains, just think of the hosted cdn/javascripts that many websites use across the googleapis.com domain.
But you can go a long way, I’ve been running fully “self-hosted” for a few years now, primarily via a Synology rack server. Email, address books, calendars, password manager (Vaultwarden via Docker), music (with iOS app), photos (with auto upload and default iCloud sync turned off), files on all laptops/desktops are synced ( Mac) via Synology Drive, Pihole, my blog runs on Docker Ghost installation, configuration, and can all be done via Synology nas.
Synology also has a reverse proxy on board, so you don’t even have to work with tricky port numbers. For me, vault.
The big advantage is that it’s also totally not a problem for me if I want to switch from Apple to any OS. I can replace my Macbook with an Ubuntu, I can switch from iPhone to Android or any OS for that matter, all my data stays syncronized (and that was one of the basic principles).
Nightly backups are encrypted to the S3 site as well as to another Synology NAS located elsewhere.
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